Tutorial Tuesday: Working with Double Fold Bias Tape.

Every now and a then I will share a tutorial on Tuesday…My last one was the French Seam  (I love quick & tidy finishings on my garments, especially fancy dancy ones). This week I will start a multi part Double Fold Bias tape tutorial. I make Aprons, items for the home and sometimes venture into children’s clothes, all things that need a lot of washing as they see a lot of wear tear and abuse (5yr old twins).

The First Part of the tutorial will be about adding it to a straight edge.

Bias Tape comes in a few different Sizes, what I use for clothing is Double Fold, Extra Wide… Commercially there are a couple of other sizes, or you can make your own (another tutorial).

You can see the tape is not folded exactly in half, there will be a smaller fold and a larger one. When working with Bias tape, I work on the right side of the fabric and start by opening up to the wrong side of the bias tape so that I can press open the smaller fold.

Press the Smaller Fold of the bias tape open, exposing the wrong side.

Pin the right side of the bias tape to the Raw Edge of the Right Side of the fabric.

Leave an overhang of Bias Tape at either ends of your seam, trim to about 5/8″.

Sew the Bias tape to the right side of the fabric. I sew it about 1/3″ from the edge. Staying on the inside of the fold crease line. Some people sew in the crease, but I have found that if you go over the crease slightly it will not give you a clean line when top stitching- which involves more stitch ripping and nobody likes doing that.

Working on the wrong side of the fabric, fold the Bias Tape over at the centre crease and  press. This will encase the raw edge between the two folds. The larger fold is now on the wrong side of your fabric.

Before Sewing close, fold in the ends and trim to desired seam size.

Before Sewing I re-press my seams on both sides of the fabric for crisp clean seams.

Top Stitch the right side  of the fabric, just in from the edge of the bias tape, securing at both ends with a back stitch.

If you were to do a cross section  of the finished seam, you would have a piece of fabric sandwiched between the two sides of the bias tape. The top smaller side would be on the right side of the fabric and the larger fold would be to the wrong side of the fabric.  When you top stitch the small side you catch the larger bottom side on the wrong side.

I have tried to be as clear and concise as posible, but if you find something confusing or lacking, let me know. I love working with bias tape, and think it adds a really nice professional edge.

The Green Tea Apron will be added to my Etsy shop a bit later. It is from an original vintage pattern! All the deets will be up soon.

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